Here are two things you can do to finish your knife. You don't have to finish your knife, but it is always more satisfying when it looks nice. (Or more, depending on what the length of your blade is.) Step 7: Finish Work

The length of serrations can anywhere be from 4-7 inches. If you don't have a Dremel, then you can use a file, and it will simply take more time. Then I used the Dremel again to make the serrations look evenly spaced apart. To make the serrations, I used a belt sander to add the bevel, then used a Dremel tool to put the serrations in. This kind of knife was meant to be a multipurpose tool, so they added serrations on the back so it could be useful for sawing. I don't know much more about sharpening stones, but there are plenty of people online that do, so I recommend looking up how to use one online if you are interested. A sharpening stone is harder to use than a belt sander, but produces a sharper edge. Although this is the easier way to do it in my opinion, you can also use a tool called a sharpening stone. To sharpen my knives, I simply use a belt sander and slowly taper down the cutting edge until it is sharp enough for me. Sharpening a knife can be very tricky to get right, but is also a very important step in the knife making process. (Clamp it while the epoxy is drying so it is extra strong) After the epoxy drys, use a belt sander or an orbital sander to round off all of the uncomfortable edges until it feels good to hold. after that, put the two pieces of brass rod through the handle scales and the tang, and glue it all together with 5 minute epoxy. (make sure to use a 3/16 inch drill bit) Then, cut two pieces of brass rod to about 25 mm each. after cutting the handle scales out, drill holes out on the markings that match the holes on the tang. First, you mark out the shape of the tang on you handle material, and mark the holes on the tang. To assemble the handle you will need your handle material, 3/16 inch brass rod, and 5 minute epoxy. (Traditional M-1 astronaut knives used a white synthetic handle, because it was reliable) One of the best materials you can use though, is micarta because it is very strong and looks nice. I usually use walnut because I think it looks good when you finish it, and it is also pretty strong. There are a lot of different types of handle materials to choose from. Picking the right handle material while making a knife handle is very important. (I recommend using corn oil to quench, because it smells better than other oils and is not toxic) Step 5: Making the Handle The ideal kind of quench tank would be a ammo can, because it has a lid that can be closed if the oil catches fire, and it won't burn or give off toxic or harmful fumes if exposed to heat. Do not make your quench tank out of anything flammable like wood, or anything that could give off toxic fumes if exposed to heat, like PVC. The material of your quench tank is also something you should take into consideration. You can heat it up using a propane or charcoal forge, or use an oxyacetylene or propane torch for an edge quench (Advantages of an edge quench over a full-blade quench include making the blade less brittle, as well as the blade having a reduced risk of bending or cracking, but edge quenches are much more of a hassle.) If you cant measure the temperature, just heat it up until it is a red to orange color. The way you quench is by heating up your blade to between 10 degrees Celsius (19 degrees Fahrenheit). This step is important because it is where you put the strength into your blade. This is one of the most important parts in the knife making process. (You can skip this step if you don't have access to a forge)

Forged in fire season 6 episode 21